Finding Peace at Protesters Falls

A Journey Through Nature, Memory, and Healing

When grief walks with you, every journey becomes part of your healing path. Standing before Protesters Falls in Nightcap National Park, I found natural beauty and a profound connection to loss and hope. As the widow of an environmental scientist, these moments in nature carry extra weight—they're both a homage to my B's passion and a step forward on my path.

A Personal Journey

The morning started early, driving through the Channon and Terania Creek areas of the Northern Rivers region of New South Wales. B would have loved this approach—the gradual transition from farmland to rainforest, the way the morning light filtered through the canopy. We spent years exploring such places together before cancer changed our story, him explaining the intricate relationships between species while I photographed the beauty he helped me see.

The unsealed road to the falls brought its memories. B always joked about our "adventurous" drives to remote locations, and I smiled at the familiar bounce of tyres on gravel. Some grief days are more complex than others, but today, these memories felt like company rather than ghosts.

The Natural Cathedral

The 1.4-kilometre trail to the falls is a journey through one of Australia's most significant rainforest ecosystems. The diversity here is staggering - something B would have revelled in explaining. Ancient Antarctic beech trees, survivors from Gondwana times, stand sentinel alongside:

• Towering strangler figs with their intricate root systems

• Rare native orchids hiding in plain sight

• Various species of native ferns, including the delicate bird's nest fern

• Bright fungi breaking down fallen timber

• Bangalow palms reaching for sunlight

The wildlife, though fascinating, is illusive:

• Pademelon wallabies rustling through the undergrowth

• The distinctive call of the Albert's lyrebird

• Rainbow lorikeets flashing through the canopy

• The endangered Fleay's barred frog (though rarely seen, its protection is crucial here)

And then there are the dragonflies. Since losing B, these ethereal creatures have become my companions on Australian visits, appearing at significant moments. Today, a brilliant blue one danced before me at the falls' viewing platform, a reminder that beauty can emerge from life's transitions.

The History of Protest

Standing in the middle of this beautiful rainforest, it's hard to imagine this paradise was once threatened. In 1979, this valley became the site of Australia's first successful direct-action environmental protest. B would have known every detail - how local residents and environmental activists:

• Physically stood before bulldozers

• Created tree-sit platforms in the canopy

• Documented the unique ecosystem

• Educated the public about the forest's significance

• Maintained a peaceful but determined presence

Their efforts led to the creation of Nightcap National Park in 1983 and set a precedent for environmental protection across Australia. The falls' name is a permanent reminder of how passionate individuals can preserve natural treasures for future generations.

Cultural Significance

The Widjabul Wia-bal people, traditional custodians of this land, have known its importance for thousands of years. The rainforest provided:

• Traditional food sources

• Medicinal plants

• Sacred sites

• Teaching places

• Sustainable resources

Their deep connection to this land adds another layer of significance to its preservation.

Practical Information for Fellow Wanderers

Best Times to Visit:

• Early morning for wildlife spotting

• After rain for spectacular water flow

• Spring for wildflowers

• Winter for crisp, clear days

Essential Equipment:

• Sturdy walking shoes

• Water and snacks

• Camera (morning light is best for photography)

• Light rain jacket (weather can change quickly)

• Walking stick if needed (the track can be slippery)

Getting There:

• - 45km from Lismore via Nimbin Road

• - Follow signs to The Channon

• - Take Terania Creek Road to its end

• - The last 8km is unsealed but generally 2WD accessible

Conservation Today

The protection of Protesters Falls continues to inspire environmental movements. Current initiatives include:

• Regular species monitoring

• Habitat restoration projects

• Educational programs

• Research into endangered species

• Community involvement in conservation

A Place of Healing

What strikes me most about this place is its ability to hold multiple truths: it's a site of historical significance, an ecological treasure, and, for me, a place of personal healing. The falls cascade 25 meters over ancient volcanic rock, creating a constant symphony that drowns out the world's noise.

While swimming isn't permitted (to protect those precious endangered frogs - B would have insisted on this), the viewing platform offers a perfect spot for reflection. Today, I sat on a massive boulder, watching the interplay of light and water, feeling both B's absence and his continuing influence on how I see the world.

As a widow finding her way back to solo adventures, places like this are precious. They remind us that:

• Beauty persists even in times of loss

• Nature can hold space for our grief

• We're part of something larger than ourselves

• Life continues to unfold in unexpected ways

The Return Journey

Walking back to the car park, occasional flurries of rain spots failed to reach beyond the grand canopy of the first trees. A sunny sudden shower created countless tiny rainbows in the forest canopy. B would have loved that, too. He always said that the best moments in nature are the unexpected ones.

For fellow travellers, especially those walking paths of grief, this place offers both accessibility and solitude. The well-maintained trail and regular visitors provide security, while the forest offers plenty of quiet spots for reflection.

Today, sitting by these falls that activists fought to protect, I felt profound gratitude - for those who preserved this paradise, for the memories of adventures shared with B, and for the reminder that beauty and peace can be found even on paths we never expected to walk alone.

Sometimes, the most healing places are those that remind us of what our loved ones stood for. Today, Protesters Falls did precisely that - while also showing me that I'm strong enough to create new memories, one step at a time.